Eating & Dining in Santa Fe

Eating & Dining in Santa Fe

Santa Fe, and the rest of New Mexico, is known for its huge and spicy plates full of Southwestern food. Restaurants in Santa Fe run from expensive haute Southwestern to down-home fast-food style plates, where you will be asked "red or green" (chile). You can try a mix of both red and green chile peppers by asking for your dish "Christmas style" (although that will make you look like a gringo). However, Santa Fe also has a number of excellent restaurants offering other cuisines -- possibly too many of them, in fact, as the highly competitive marketplace forces even some very good ones out of business before their time. It is almost impossible to overstate the dining possibilities here; they far outstrip those in most American cities ten times Santa Fe's size. As with several other New Mexico towns, restaurants in this description are broken into the sub-categories "New Mexican" (which, note, is not the same as "Mexican" by any means) and "Other." Meals (exclusive of drinks and tips) will usually cost $10/person or less at the "Budget" places, $10 to $25 at the "Mid-range" ones, and more -- sometimes much more -- at the "Upmarket." Note that many Santa Fe restaurants are somewhat "casual" as regards business hours; if a place doesn't have hours listed below, inquire locally as to when it's open, as the hours may change erratically.

New Mexican Cuisine

There are so many good New Mexican restaurants in town that a description here can barely scratch the surface. A note on red and green chile: half of the writers on New Mexican food claim that green chile is hotter than red, while half claim it's the other way around. In reality, the best authority on the spiciness of the chile at the particular restaurant you eat at is the restaurant itself, so if you're concerned about the chile being too hot, simply ask; you'll get a straight answer far more often than not. One thing that's definitely true, however, is that green tends to be fleshier than red, and adds a bit more substance to the dish, independent of the heat level.

Budget

• The local Woolworths on the Plaza is said to be the birthplace of the "Frito Pie"; it has since been replaced by the Five and Dime, 58 E. San Francisco, +1 505 992-1800. The original chef is purported to still serve them there. The Frito Pie consists of a Fritos corn chips topped by meaty red chile and cheddar cheese, with onions and jalapenos as a garnish, served in the original Frito bag.
• The Shed, 113 1/2 (sic) East Palace Avenue, +1 505 982-9030. The quintessential New Mexican lunch spot. In a little plaza off East Palace Avenue in the heart of the downtown area, recessed off the street and hard to find, but worth the effort to poke around the several side plazas until you locate it. Its sister restaurant La Choza, 905 Alarid Street, +1 505 982-0909, is open evenings and is on an obscure side street close to the main drag of St. Francis Drive, well outside the downtown area. Both serve "traditional" New Mexican food (enchiladas, stuffed sopaipillas, etc.) in a rustic setting. Lunch entrees from $7 or so at both, dinners from $9.
• Cafe Dominic, 320 S. Guadalupe, +1 505 982-4743, is a relatively new entry near the beautiful Santuario de Guadalupe. A breezy, informal place with an artsy-craftsy atmosphere. Open 7 days for all meals, but try this one particularly for breakfast; the breakfast burritos and Santa Fe omelettes with green chile are excellent. Breakfast from $5 or so.
• Felipe's Tacos, 1711-A Llano Street, +1 505 473-9397. Huge burritos, tacos and very, very authentic Mexican food for as little as two dollars. It's located only a few blocks from Santa Fe High, so after school can be a little crowded, but it's worth the wait. Open Mon-Sat, closes at 4:30.
• El Merendero (Posa's), in two locations: 1514 Rodeo Rd, +1 505 820-7672, and 3538 Zafarano, +1 505 473-3454. This is primarily a catering/retail-sales outfit (delivery throughout town, sometimes delivering very large orders, as well as by parcel) of long standing and good reputation, but has recently opened two fast-food-style outlets for their wares. It's definitely not fine dining, but a reasonable representative of basic New Mexican fare for those in a hurry. 7 days, lunch and dinner; entrees $5-10.
• Plaza Cafe, 54 Lincoln Ave., +1 505 982-1664. An old standby a stone's throw from the vendors on the Portal. Open 7 days for all meals, but particularly recommended for lunch, although it's crowded.
• Tecolote Café, 1203 Cerrillos Road +1 505 988-1362. Breakfast only 7am - 2pm, Tuesday-Sunday. Great New Mexican and traditional American breakfast fare. No toast.
• Tia Sophia's, 210 San Francisco St., +1 505 983-9880. Breakfast and lunch 7 days; much loved by locals for breakfast.
• Tortilla Flats, 3139 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 471-8685. A well known New Mexican establishment with typical Santa Fe fare. Frequented by many locals, another great stopping point for a quick meal or a casual dinner. Open 7 days; hours "subject to change" but listed as 7AM-9AM Su-Th, 7AM-10PM F-Sa. Less than $10.

Mid-range

• Tomasita's, 500 S. Guadalupe (just south of downtown in an old railroad station), +1 505 983-5721. Considered by many to serve the definitive "traditional" New Mexican food. Expect to wait, as it's enormously popular. Entrees around $9-11, but splurge a little and get the sangria too.
• Blue Corn Cafe, in two locations, 133 Water Street downtown, +1 505 984-1800; and 4056 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 438-1800. Lunch and dinner 7 days a week. A curious combination of New Mexican cuisine and a microbrewery.
• Maria's New Mexican Kitchen, 555 W. Cordova Road, +1 505 983-7929 (reservations accepted, but many walk-ins), prides itself on margaritas, but the traditional New Mexican cuisine is also good, if a bit heavier than at Tomasita's. Lunch and dinner 7 days. Parking, though ample, is a pain to get to; approach from the east, on Camino de los Marquez rather than Cordova.

Upmarket

• La Casa Sena, 125 E. Palace Ave., +1 505 988-9232, is an example of "Southwestern" cuisine -- the merging of traditional New Mexican preparation and presentation with more modern, creative ingredients (sometimes a little too creative). Open 7 days for lunch and dinner; reservations recommended.
• Coyote Cafe, 132 W. Water St., +1 505 983-1615 (reservations recommended, can be placed on-line, is another highly-regarded "Southwestern" dining experience, although there has been a recent tendency for chef Mark Miller to use his restaurant to engage in puffery on behalf of his big-city franchises elsewhere. It's still an excellent restaurant, if an expensive one -- $50 per person for dinner, including wine/dessert and tip, is not unusual. Don't let the typos on their web site put you off; the chef is much better at attention to detail than the webmaster.
• Gabriel's, on State Road 285 (exit 176) north of town (past the opera) near the outlying village of Pojoaque; +1 505 455-7000 (reservations advised but not essential). Lunch M-Sa, dinner seven days, hours vary. As much "Old" Mexican as New Mexican. The guacamole appetizer is fantastic, as are the fajitas. Dinner with guacamole and sangria will cost $25 or so. The art gallery across the parking lot is worth a look too, when you're done with your meal.
• Ore House on the Plaza, 50 Lincoln Ave., +1 505 983-8687. Lunch 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM; dinner from 5:30 PM. Combines Northern New Mexico cuisine and steakhouse offerings, with balcony dining on the second floor. Reservations strongly recommended, as it's crowded during tourist season. The cantina (bar) is a popular watering hole as well.

Other Cuisines

Santa Fe has plenty of standard chain restaurants (Olive Garden, Outback, Red Lobster, etc.), but why bother? There are enough excellent "local" ones that you can save your trips to these more ubiquitous eateries for cities less well-endowed from a culinary point of view. All restaurants below are uniquely Santa Fean in their character and cuisine.

Budget

• Bobcat Bite, 420 Old Las Vegas Highway, +1 505 983-5319. An utterly unpretentious burger joint on the way into town from the east, far from the downtown area. Nothing fancy here, just huge and tasty burgers, etc., in a setting that evokes a 1950s small-town diner. No credit cards accepted, unless they've changed policy recently. Lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Saturday.
• Chopstixs, 238 N Guadalupe St, +1 505 820-2126 , a fast-food, take-out or dine-in Chinese restaurant. Built into an old gas station, it looks like the kind of place that you should stay a mile away from, and that's what makes it so good. Be careful during the school year at lunch time, as this is a popular high-school lunch spot.
• The Pantry Restaurant, 1820 Cerrillos Rd (Corner of Cerrillos & 5th), ? 505 986 0022. 6:30 AM-2:30 PM. Delicious food served in a diner-type setting. The waitstaff are super friendly, and serve humongous portions with bright smiles. The customers fill the small front quickly in the mornings, but seats are often available at the bar (which serves delicious milkshakes, even before noon.) $5-$10. edit
• Pyramid Cafe, 505 W. Cordova Rd., +1 505 989-1378. In a strip mall on Cordova Road south of downtown; 11 am - 9 pm 7 days according to current information, but hours seem to vary. Good Greek/Mediterranean lunches. Nothing fancy, just good, casual food. Don't bother with reservations, but call to check on hours. Lunches from $5 or so; occasional belly-dancing entertainment. Now also open in Los Alamos if your travels take you in that direction.
• Santa Fe Baking Company, 504 W. Cordova Rd., +1 505 988-4292, is across Cordova Road from Pyramid and offers tolerable sandwiches, soups, etc., for lunch, but don't go just for the lunch (or breakfast); grab a dessert while you're there, these being what it's known for. Can be very busy at lunchtime on weekdays, with chaos on all quarters. Call-in orders welcome.
• Santa Fe Steamer, 3242 Cerrillos Rd., +1 505 438-3862. M-Sa 11AM-9PM. Seafood, breezy and informal yet with attentive service. The fare is quite good considering that the nearest ocean is about 500 miles away; some creativity. Portions are not large, but in a weight-conscious age, they're large enough.
• Tune-Up Cafe, 1115 Hickox. Formerly "Dave's Not Here." Local hangout featuring burgers with a New Mexican flavor. Open for breakfast and lunch, with plans for dinner pending liquor license approval. The location, near the main St. Francis Drive artery, is more convenient for the through traveler than to downtown.
• Upper Crust Pizza, 329 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 982-0000 (seriously), is widely considered to serve the best (American-style) pizza in town. Free delivery, but if practical, consider dining in instead; Old Santa Fe Trail is one of the main tourist drags, and you get a chance to combine pizza munching with people watching.
• Whole Hog Cafe, 3006 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 474-3375. 11 am - 9 pm 7 days. A barbecue chain centered in Arkansas and Louisiana, but with two New Mexico outlets (the other is in Albuquerque); fast-food-meets-steakhouse format, but the BBQ is high-quality by any standards. Try the "Volcano" BBQ sauce (you'll have to ask for it at the counter) and see if it's hotter than the New Mexican cuisine elsewhere in town. If it blows you away, sauce #3 also has some kick and is tasty. Lunches (handy as it's in the pandemonious Cerrillos Road shopping area) from $5.05.

Mid-range

• India Palace, 227 Don Gaspar Ave., +1 505 986-5859, and India House, 2501 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 471-2304. Surprisingly excellent Indian cuisine, both operated by the same family, with essentially identical menus. India Palace is more "atmospheric," India House more convenient (better parking), and the sag paneer at both is to die for. India House may have entertainment for some dinners. Hours at both sites: 11:30AM-2:30PM and 5PM-10PM, open 7 days. Figure $15-20 a head, and worth every penny.
• Mariscos La Playa Restaurant, in two locations: 537 W. Cordova Rd., +1 505 982-2790, and 2875 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 473-4594. An example of the difference between "Mexican" and "New Mexican" cuisine; these restaurants definitely are the former, with an emphasis on seafood prepared as in Old Mexico. (You definitely won't find the Pulpo -- octopus -- dishes on the menu at their New Mexican counterparts!) Nothing special as regards ambience/presentation, but good, authentic food. Lunch and dinner, W-M (closed Tuesdays).
• Mu Du Noodles, 1494 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 983-1411, features noodle/pasta dishes from around the world, but most of the dishes are from China or Southeast Asia. Parking can be a challenge.
• Pasqual's, 121 Don Gaspar, +1 505 983-9340. An old standby in the downtown area. As with many Santa Fe restaurants, the menu blends New Mexican cuisine with more traditional American fare. Open 7 days for all three meals (reservations recommended for dinner, which approaches "Upmarket" territory), and recommended particularly for breakfast, when it's far better value for dollar than the restaurants at the several nearby hotels.
• Pink Adobe, 406 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 983-7712. A long-time Santa Fe standard, near the downtown area. A mix of continental and New Mexican cuisine that borders on "Upmarket" territory. Dinner 7 nights, lunch M-F.
• Pranzo Italian Grill, 540 Montezuma Ave., +1 505 984-2645, may be the best Italian restaurant in town. In the Sanbusco Center just southwest of downtown. Lunch and dinner 7 days; reservations advisable. Expect it to be loud.
• Chinese food is a weakness (at least relatively speaking) in Santa Fe, but the unpretentious Wok, 2860 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 424-8126, has some supporters. M-Th 11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-9:30PM, closed Sundays.

Upmarket

• 315, 315 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 986-9190. A restaurant whose name is also its street number. Reservations advised. French/Continental cuisine in a sidewalk-bistro-like setting. Good wine list, and save room for the creme brulee dessert. You can easily drop $50 a person here and feel good about it. Dinner 7 nights; lunch schedule unclear.
• Angel Food Catering, +1 505 983-2433. Not a restaurant, but rather a catering service that specializes in the very popular "tailgate dinners" for the Santa Fe Opera (see above). Phone in your order (reservations are required at least 24 hours in advance), then pick it up at the kiosk on the Santa Fe Opera grounds. Menu is American/Continental with Southwestern influence. Expect to pay about $35-40 per person; wine is not included.
• Bishop's Lodge Restaurant, Bishop's Lodge Road, +1 505 819-4035 (reservations). At the pricey Bishop's Lodge Resort (see under "Sleep"/"Upmarket"), north of downtown on the way to the village of Tesuque. One of the few "Upmarket" restaurants that offers three meals a day, including a Sunday brunch. Eclectic cuisine, basically American.
• The Compound, 653 Canyon Rd., +1 505 982-4353. Located on Canyon Road near the art galleries. Although the Compound once enforced a dress code of jacket and tie, new chef/owner Mark Kiffin eliminated any formal dress requirement. Southwestern cuisine. Lunches M-F, Noon-2; dinner nightly beginning at 6; entrees from $25-40; reservations strongly advised.
• Geronimo, 724 Canyon Road, +1 505 982-1500. Another fine restaurant amid the galleries. The menu tends toward Continental but is entertainingly diverse and changes frequently. Brunch(?) and dinner 7 days. Dinner reservations are recommended and can be placed via the (unnecessarily ostentatious) web site. $40 per person will get you an excellent dinner.
• El Mesón, 213 Washington Ave., +1 505 983-6756. Spanish cuisine, well prepared and attentively served; the paella is excellent. Diners used to sangria New Mexico-style may find this restaurant's version a bit dry. Tu-Sat 5 pm - 11 pm; live entertainment most evenings. Expect to pay $40 per person or more.
• Osteria d`Assisi, 58 S. Federal Place (three blocks north of the Plaza), +1 505 986-5858. Lunch M-Sa 11:00am - 3:00pm, dinner nightly from 5:00pm. If Pranzo (above) isn't the best Italian restaurant in town, this one may be. Prices range from about $10-12 for a simple Neapolitan-style pizza to $70 or more for a grand 5-course dinner with wine (come hungry and expect to leave full), or anything in between.
• Ristra, 548 Agua Fria St., +1 505 982-8608. Dinner nightly from 5:30. Despite its name, the menu is primarily Continental with French tendencies, although there are New Mexican overtones. Service is attentive to the point of being almost intrusive, but not quite; on parle français, and probably other major languages as well, as it's popular with opera goers and the manager and waitstaff have international backgrounds. Expect to spend around $70 per person.
• Santacafe, 231 Washington Ave., +1 505 984-1788. One of Santa Fe's big-name restaurants, and you probably pay a little extra for the celebrity, but the American/Continental fare is creative and well presented, with attentive service. Lunch and dinner seven days (hours vary); Sunday "brunch" 11AM-2:30PM during the summer. Expect to spend around $50 per person.
• The Old House Restaurant 309 W. San Francisco, +1 505 995-4530. AAA Four Diamond restaurant that Zagat honored as New Mexico’s best. Contemporary global cuisine featuring seasonal and regional ingredients, with Southwestern and Asian influences. The wine selection earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Opens at 5:30pm nightly for dinner. Expect to spend around $50 per person.
• Tulips, 222 W. Guadalupe, +1 505 989-7340 (reservations). Santa Fe is full of unpretentious, little-advertised, yet good hole-in-the-wall restaurants that nobody has heard of, and this one is better than most. American-meets-Continental cuisine; the elk tenderloin is marvelous. Portions can be a bit small, but in an overweight age, that's not such a bad thing. Quieter than some of its competitors, which can be a relief. Expect to spend upward of $100 for dinner for two with wine and dessert. Dinner only, Tuesday through Sunday.

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